Scene Of The Crime: Goshen, CT
Date: Saturday, August 1st 2009
Connecticut Wine Festival 2009
Ahhh.... The Connecticut Wine Festival. Twenty plus farm wineries all under one roof at one time.
I wanted to take the opportunity to see as many of CT's "wineries" as possible before setting out on my journey of the CT Wine Trail. I took along Mo and Rinsey.
I would put Mo and Rinsey somewhere between wine novice and wine nerd ("moderates"?). Mo helped during the judging of the 50 Beers from 50 States tasting at New England Brewing. Mo is a lover of one word answers and California Cult Pinots. Rinsey works in the logistics end for one of CT's nerdier wine distributors. Give him Argentinian Malbec or a generous Super Tuscan.
The Festival was held at the Goshen Fairgrounds. Upon arrival, Rinsey was quick to point out that the band Silver Jews have a song about Goshen.
It was an interesting set-up: Wait in line to buy tickets, then go to another line to get your tote bag, then another line to have your ID checked, then move 2 feet over to another line to get your bracelet (and in Mo's case, ID re-checked), followed by another line to get your glass. Wow. The wineries were set up in one building, cramped with visitors and other vendors, and made getting around virtually impossible. Also disappointing was the general lack of spit-buckets. I like spit buckets. Many of the attendees should've tried them out.
'Cuz we'd rather have your drunk buddies get themselves home
Land Of Nod
East Canaan
The first wine we tried was their Bianca made from the hybrid Hungarian grape of the same name. I'm unsure of the vintage. The wine, aged in stainless steel had a nose reminiscent of Tokai with lemon, straw, and petrol notes. A bone dry palate battled with a ton of acidity, followed by a quick, dry finish. While I felt the acidity was a bit much, the wine was decent.
We followed that with their Pinot Noir. Again, I don't know the vintage, but the winery's website leads me to believe 2005. Pinot Noir is a picky grape, but theory is that it can be used in CT if many conditions are met. The wine was aged in stainless steel. I asked about the Pinot clone, but my tasting "bartender" didn't know. The wine was awfully light in color, but many Cali 100% Pinots can be as well. There was black pepper and red berries on the nose followed by sugary strawberry on the palate. The wine finished with a light, acidic finish. Mo, our resident Pinot gal, was not in favor of this wine, although I didn't have any major issues with it.
Sharpe Hill Vineyard
Pomfret
Sharpe Hill is one of CT's most well-known wineries, and cases of their Ballet Of Angels can be found stacked throughout CT retailers. Mo chose to try their Chardonnay. She brought it over and we found it had a ton of oak on the nose and a citrus palate. It was mild at the start of the finish, but was overpowered by alcohol at the end. The wine was very acidic. Mo, in typical one-word fashion, said "Grapefruits".
Hopkins Vineyard
New Preston
The Westwind was virtually clear in the glass, with a light silver tint. It had a nose and mouth of apricot and was slightly sweet. I'm unsure of what was used.
One of my favorites from the entire festival was their Duet. Duet is a low-oak blend of Chardonnay and Vidal (30%/70%?). The wine had green apple, grass, hazelnut, and light oak on the nose. The palate was full bodied with good acidity - very well balanced. Rated from 1-10, I'd give it an 8.
DiGrazia Vineyards
Brookfield
We opted for DiGrazia's Wind Ridge, a Seyval Blanc. Now, when I go to Starbucks, I always ask for a "Large" as opposed to a "Venti" or whatever; it's one of my little quirks. At DiGrazia's table, I asked for the "Seyval" and the pouring "bartender" had to turn around and check the board to see which wine was made from Seyval. I knew I wasn't going to get the chance to ask nerdy questions about malolactic fermentation or toast levels. Oh well.
The Wind Ridge had virtually zero nose. After some time, I was able to find a slight hint of red and green apples. DiGrazia describes this wine as "Semi Dry". It was fairly dry on the palate with a slight sweetness on the finish. I would expect more minerality from Seyval and with as much stone as we have in Connecticut soil, you'd be hard pressed not to get it, but there was very little in the Wind Ridge.
DiGrazia also offered something called Autumn Spice. Autumn Spice, according to DiGrazia's website is made of "White grapes are fermented with sugar pumpkin and honey, then lightly spiced with cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and cloves." Over on the Twitter, @bethasilvestri said, "Toss up between the Pumpkin Spice and Rhubarb wine at the CT wine festival... guess I'll take both!". Gives you an idea of what we were up against that afternoon. Rinsey's comment was, "I was just poisoned!". Not for the wine snob, Autumn Spice, had an overwhelming nose of pumpkin spice, nutmeg, and ginger.
Rosedale Vineyards
Simsbury
Rosedale was a solid entry at the 'Fest. Their wines, whether traditional, hybrid, or hobbyist grapes were done in a real wine style, as opposed to the plethora of fruit-wineries in attendance. Located in the Farmington River Valley, grapes that will survive are used, while other grapes are bought out of California.
The Simsbury Celebration was a blend of Seyval Blanc and Meynieu (a post-phylloxera hybrid developed by a Frenchman of the same name). It had a nose of must, barnyard, and melon. The melon showed through on a creamy palate with a dry, almost Hungarian, mouthfeel. Under-ripe figs and stone occupied the finish.
The Lou's Red was a multi-coastal blend, with estate grown St. Croix and Marechal Foch combined with California grown Merlot and Sangiovese.
note: it was at this time that Mo bit her tongue as an attendee told his buddies, "There is zero Sangiovese in Chianti". (Italian law requires a minimum 80% of the 'Vese, some wineries use 100%)
Marechal Foch is an Alsacian hybrid of a Riesling-hybrid and a Vitis/Vitis cross. The wine was fruit forward with a decent balance brought on by the Sangiovese. It was a decent wine with very little obvious tannin and low acidity, so it would be a good recommendation for someone who doesn't like "bite".
Rosedale's Farmington River Red was a classic Bordeaux blend -- Cabernet, Merlot, and Cab Franc. It had ripe dark red fruit, and dried sage and celery seed on the nose, followed by a medium body full of chocolate and plum. While I felt the wine was slightly off-balance, it was one of my favorite reds at the show.
The Serendipity is made up of mainly Estate grown Vignoles (a hybrid of Pinot Corton and Seibel). Vignoles is a good choice for the region -- it does well in the Finger Lakes and Canada. Other Estate grown grapes are blended in varying quantities for a field blend. The nose had rosehip, tarragon, and something akin to corn syrup. The rosehip came through on the palate which was slightly vegetal and definitely herbal. The wine had generous acidity, but not a lot of structure. The finish was dominated by green grape flavors.
Taylor Brooke Winery
Woodstock
It was a little tough to get a spot at Taylor Brooke's table as everyone was clamoring over their Summer Peach. It was straight out of Mission Impossible to get to Richard Auger, the winemaker, but he was more than happy to answer the questions that I was able to fire at him by climbing over people.
They offered a Traminette which is the Cornell University clone of Seyval and Gewurtztraminer. The nose was floral with notes of perfume. The palate was bone dry with bright acidity and slight pineapple flavor. This would be a great summertime quaff, which is a nice way of saying Porch Pounder. I liked this wine, and gave it an above-average rating in my notes.
Their Riesling was not very German. The nose reminded me of a honey farm I once visited which was covered with wildflowers. In the mouth, there was fresh, cold weather fruit and healthy acidity, which I would expect from a dry German Riesling. This wine, however, had this really alluring creaminess that just stopped me in my tracks.
I just had to push and shove my way through the Summer-Peach-crowd to get to Richard. He told me he keeps multiple vintages of the Riesling in stainless steel and blends them. The extra time in stainless, in some cases up to 4 years, is what gives the wine its creamy texture. Because of this texture, and the involvement of Riesling, this wine could be paired with just about any food, from spicy dishes to a light salad, to alfredo. While there were other Whites at the event that I liked more, this may be the most versatile white wine made in CT!
The Woodstock Valley Red is made from Estate grown St. Croix and is aged for 18 months in Hungarian oak. It had blackberries and red raspberries on the nose and palate and mild tannins that were not understated.
Connecticut Valley Winery
New Hartford
Mo, user of one-word descriptions, summed these guys up as, "Prettyboys". They were definitely more interested in the semi-intoxicated ladies than answering questions about their wines. I suppose I can understand, but as someone who has poured at dozens of tastings, there can be a balance. Whatever.
They poured a Chardonel which is another Cornell U hybrid -- Chardonnay and Seyval Blanc. While not undrinkable, the oak in the wine smelled and tasted more of oak mulch than barrel. There was a flavor that I kept getting that could only be described as tin-like.
They were proud that their Chianti was supposedly grandfathered in under European Union wine laws that prohibit the use of the word Chianti outside of Italy. Apparently, the Italians had never tasted it. Bettino Ricasoli has rolled over in his grave.
Mo did enjoy their Black Bear Port, however, and this is a gal who has plenty of 1976 Colheita in her cellar. She also has an affinity for Napa "floor" Zin ports. At one point, she did come over and say, "Guys, just because a girl asks for your port, don't say, 'this is a port' just because your list says dessert wine; some girls know more than you". It was at this point where I felt maybe I should've moved Mo's description from "moderate" to "bitchy-wine-snob" -- you go, girl!
Priam Vineyards
Colchester
The Salmon River White was a barrel fermented blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, and Muscat. It had an interesting nose of smokehouse and melon. The melon came through on the palate and was met with peach flavors. The finish was crisp and full of melon.
The Salmon River Red was a Bordeaux-ish blend of Merlot, Cab Franc, and Cabernet. It sees one year in medium-toast American oak barrels. It had nice black pepper notes on the nose, which while normal for Cabernet Franc, is somewhat rare in CT Cab Francs. The wine had a nice amount of oak and a good balance on the palate with super velvety tannins. This wine really surprised me. The tasting staff were also surprising in that they were more than happy to answer my nerd questions.
Their Jeremy River White was a blend of Riesling and Cayuga. Cayuga is normally a grape that overpowers. It tends to remind me of an old Greek woman who used to babysit me, Mrs. Soltis -- she had these tart, sour grapes growing from a trellis in her backyard that she used to make Tsipouro. I have an admitted bias against Cayuga. In the JR White, however, the Cayuga didn't really show through much. The wine was semi-sweet with crisp acidity with flavors of apricot, peach, and nectarine and a mineral finish.
overheard outside and used in otherwise complete sentences: "Good spice and contained the fruitful" along with many "Rice-lings"
Miranda Vineyard
Goshen
One thing Miranda had going for them was their labels, which were nicely designed without being pompous or overly wine-ey. The wines, however, were another story.
Their Seyval Blanc had little nose, grapefruit on the palate, and a light sweetness on the finish, but was terribly acidic.
The Woodridge White was a Chardonnay/Seyval blend. It basically tasted as if the Seyval had oak extract added to it.
Miranda's Merlot had black pepper and licorice on the nose. The palate was overpowered by a sense of heat or alcohol and drowned out any other flavors (a tiny bit of blackberry showed). It did have more body than most CT reds and a great color, but it wasn't enough to be its "saving grace". The tannins and acidity were underbalanced.
Jones Winery
Shelton
Jones Winery was located near the entrance to the winery building and was a constant mob-scene. I saw plenty of fruit-wine drinkers, so I had continually passed them over. Late in the day, I scored some extra tickets and decided to plow my way through a sea of alcoholic-grandmas and Torrington-ites to see what they had to offer. I'm glad I did.
Their Cabernet Franc was on the lighter side (both in color and palate) which is par-for-the-course in CT. Jones adds Estate grown Merlot and ages in oak for over a year. While it didn't have much black pepper, the Merlot gave it a very fruit forward feel. The wine surprised me, as I had expected the Jones Fruit Empire to have only fruit-wines. According to their website, they also do an Estate grown Pinot Gris as well as a straight Merlot and a red blend.
Chamard
Clinton
Chamard is one of Connecticut's better known wineries and their wines are available at both casinos, Foxwoods and Mohegan Sun, in Eastern CT alongside bottles of 40's Bordeaux and California Cult wines. I really wanted to try them out, but there seemed to be a lack of spit-buckets available at their table.
note: when attending a wine tasting, it is customary to use spit-buckets. I didn't see anyone else using them, and got quite a few disgusted looks when I did.
After I acquired my bonus tickets, I decided to try my hand at Chamard. I'd slip in, grab a sample, and sneak out behind some parked cars where I could spit away in peace and quiet.
All I was able to get to from Chamard was their Cabernet Franc. It had a great oxblood color (think of your old Doc Marten's from the early 90's) and a nose full of black pepper, cassis, and cooking spices. In the mouth were black and white pepper notes, floral and vegetal characteristics, and velvety tannins. The floral and vegetal bits carried through to the long, dry finish. My only issue with the wine was a bit of "heat" throughout.
Jonathan Edwards Winery
North Stonington
While the line at their table wouldn't suggest it, Jonathan Edwards clearly stole the show at the CT Wine Fest. Their wines, tasted blind, would make one think Napa Valley. To be fair, their red wines (and some white), are made in CT from grapes grown in Napa, but their whites at the festival were all Connecticut. Jonathan Edwards spent time in California, and currently the Napa harvests are overseen by J.Edwards staff. The grapes are crushed and primed for production, then shipped in refrigerated trucks (refrigeration suspends fermentation) to North Stonington where the wine is made.
Their '06 (oh yeah, they use vintages!) Napa Zinfandel was full of blackberry jam, so much so that I swear you could spread it on toast. Black pepper and raspberry on the nose, this wine has a finish so smooth I'm pretty sure I heard the Shaft theme song playing -- bold, read that, BOLD black fruit and a ton of pepper. The Zin comes from 50 year old Calistoga hand-picked vines and sees 18 months in American Oak.
The '06 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon comes from Yountsville fruit. Also 18 months, this time in French Oak, this wine has a nose that has it all, albeit subtle. Dark chocolate, tobacco, and dry earth are the main players before a palate full of plum and dark red fruits. Superb tannins lead to a healthy finish. This is the one wine showcased that is truly ageworthy -- we're talking 10 years in cellar, while being completely approachable now.
Edwards' '07 Estate Connecticut Chardonnay definitely had less oak on the nose than other CT Chards. Citrus notes and apples dominate -- golly, cold weather fruits from a cold weather Appellation?! Go figure! If I were a betting man, I'd guess that the oak barrels used were light toast. The smooth palate has notes of pear and melon followed by a lingering finish with great acidity.
My favorite wine of the Festival, and the only one I bought a bottle (and a glass during "break") of was their Pinot Gris. It sees 7 months in stainless steel and tastes remarkably Oregonian. Floral on the nose, with pear, apple, and lemon characteristics followed by a crisp, pleasantly acidic mouth with a hint of white pepper and, oddly, lettuce. Hands down, the best wine shown.
The Skinny:
(in order of taste)
Land Of Nod Bianca: 6.5
Land Of Nod Pinot Noir: 7
Sharpe Hill Chardonnay: 6
Hopkins Vineyard Westwind: 5
Hopkins Vineyard "Duet": 8
DiGrazia "Wind Ridge": 6
Jonathan Edwards '06 Napa Zin: NR*
DiGrazia Autumn Spice: 0.5
Rosedale Seyval Blanc: 4
Rosedale "Lou's Red": 6.5
Rosedale Farmington River Red: 6.5
Taylor Brooke Traminette: 6.5
Taylor Brooke Riesling: 5-9**
Taylor Brooke Woodstock Valley Red: 6
CT Valley Winery Chianti: 2
CT Valley Winery Chardonel: 4
Priam Salmon River White: 7.5
Priam Salmon River Red: 8
Jonathan Edwards Pinot Gris: 9.5
Jonathan Edwards Chardonnay: 8.5
Priam Jeremy River White: 7
Miranda Seyval Blanc: 3
Miranda Woodridge White: 3.5
Miranda Merlot: 2
Sharpe Hill Chardonnay: 6
Chamard Cabernet Franc: 6
Rosedale Serendipity: 4
Jonathan Edwards Cabernet: NR*
Jones Winery Cabernet Franc: 7
*NR= grapes not from CT, so it would be unfair to rate for a CT-specific wineblog. Both would've hit 9.5
**The Taylor Brooke Riesling as a riesling would receive 5 points. As an experiment in winemaking, it receives a 9.
All scores are out of 10
Wineries in attendance that I didn't taste:
White Silo
Bishops
Gouveia (didn't make friends, told him he needs a straight Zin, and his other wines were weak)
Sunset Meadow
Alright, so I made some friends and I made some enemies. I will still go forth with an open mind as I visit all of CT's wineries.
